Nicole Chanrion Cote de Brouilly 2019
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This wine is an instance of an issue unique to Beaujolais: the estate is known as Domaine de la Voûte des Crozes, but to those in the know, it is simply referred to by the name of the vigneron, Nicole Chanrion. With six generations of family preceding her, she took over the family domaine in 1988, after attending oenology school in Beaune and interning in Napa. Her vineyard holdings (roughly 7 hectares) are all in the Côte-de-Brouilly, which should be distinguished from Brouilly itself, due to the higher elevation and volcanic soils of Mont Brouilly on which it is located. Her winemaking methods are traditional—hand harvesting, whole-cluster fermentation, aging the wines in large oak foudres, bottling without filtration—and her wines always seem to present with a beautiful ripe, fresh fruit profile. This wine is an under-the-radar gem when compared to some even more scarce bottlings from trendy producers. But, don’t take our word for it; when the importer Kermit Lynch is looking for Beaujolais to stock his cellar (and he has the pick of the litter), he first looks for the latest release from Nicole Chanrion.